Make your house a leaner, meaner structure on
the energy front and save money in the long term.
Energy Star appliances, solar panels, recycled
building materials. Sound familiar? If so, then you’re probably no stranger to
the idea of environmentally-responsible remodeling. But instead of shelling out
major money to green your house from floor to ceiling, first consider taking on
a couple of smaller scale projects that could improve your home’s efficiency
without the headache of a total renovation.
"There are things that if you spend some money
on now by adding insulation or upgrading your HVAC, you’ll see a nice payoff on
your power bills over time," says Mike Gill, HVAC specialist and co-owner of
Georgia Comfort, a company that provides heating and air conditioning services
in North Georgia.
Like the idea of lowering utility bills? Then
keep reading for a list of cost-effective fixes that could pad your wallet
through the seasons and for years to come.
Project #1: Window
replacement
If you’re looking to improve the energy
efficiency of your home, start with your windows. Why? Think of how many you
have - and how much air flow they might permit due to their age or condition -
even when they are closed.
"Windows vary in terms of material and age,"
says Daniel Vannoni, owner of ProperSee, Inc., a digital home improvement
consulting company. "Generally, older windows are less energy efficient than
newer ones, since they still tend to be single pane glass
windows."
He says that newer windows are usually
double-paned and have a type of gas in between the panes to make them more heat
resistant. Many newer windows also have UV films on the outside that block
sunlight, and therefore help to keep your home
cooler.
Essentially, newer window styles provide more of
a barrier against the outdoor elements, and therefore, they seal the home up
tighter, Vannoni says.
And as far as window materials go, Vannoni says
vinyl windows tend to be more energy efficient than wood versions because the
window frames don’t expand and contract as much with changes in temperature and
moisture, so they’re less prone to cracking and then leaking over
time.
Project #2: Radiant heating installation under
the floor
Have you ever sat in a car with seat warmers?
Well, imagine that kind of heating on your feet - coming from your floors. And
although you'll have to replace the entire floor to install a radiant heating
system, it's an investment that has an energy-savings payoff - in addition to
making your home a cozier place.
Whether you’re building a new place from scratch
or just ripping up and putting in new floors, you can put radiant heating under
tile or hardwood, Vannoni says.
"With radiant heating, heat is dispersed across
the floor in an even manner and more efficiently than from a radiator or vent
that’s in one corner of a room," says Vannoni.
And if you're looking to get the most bang for
your buck, the most cost effective radiant heating system is one where heated
water is pumped from the boiler and into tubing laid underneath the floor,
according to the U.S. Department of Energy's
website.
What's more, this energy pay-off comes with the
flexibility of heating individual rooms, so you’re only heating - and paying for
- the rooms you're currently using, adds Vannoni.
Project #3: HVAC
repair/replacement
If you have an older HVAC system, it may be
well-worth the investment to repair or replace it for better energy efficiency.
That's because heating and cooling accounts for about half of your typical
utility bill, says Gill.
And if you live in an older home, say from about
the 1980s or earlier, chances are your HVAC efficiency is only at about 60
percent, as machinery just wasn’t as advanced then, Gill
says.
"Today, systems are 95 to 96 percent efficient,"
he says, "So 95 to 96 percent of the fuel is successfully being turned into
heat, instead of 60 percent or less in an older
home."
Yes, that's a big difference in efficiency,
which can make your energy bill add up quickly.
But of course, installing a new HVAC comes with
a price tag, so if you can’t afford a whole new system, you have some other
options. If you use forced hot air (that is heated by a gas or electric
furnace, heat pump, or hydronic coil) to heat your home, for example, Vannoni
says you should at least make sure your air filters are
clean.
"When the filters get clogged, the blowers have
to work harder to get heat and air to the rest of the building," Vannoni says.
"Routine cleaning will put less stress on your system and makes it last
longer."
Project #4: Siding
replacement
It’s a pretty logical concept: "The tighter you
seal your home, the more heat you retain," says
Gill.
One aspect of sealing up your property that’s
often overlooked, however, is your siding. And as air leaks out of the house
through holes in your siding - your money goes with
it.
So your first step should be repairing damages
in your existing siding that could cause air leaks, Gill says. But if your
siding is beyond repair, or you’ve got some extra money to make improvements, he
says getting new vinyl or stucco siding will allow you to add what is called a
vapor barrier underneath. This barrier minimizes air flow to and from your home,
giving it an extra layer of protection.
Want to make certain your home is completely
sealed? You can also add a foam insulation layer to block air,
too.
Project #5:
Insulation
Think of insulation as a big winter coat for
your home: it’s the "padding" that prevents hot air - or cool air in the summer
- from flowing out of the house, improving your home's energy
efficiency.
And as the home construction industry has
advanced over the years, with it has the quality of insulation. This means there
might be better quality materials to insulate your home than when it was
initially built, says Vannoni.
Your options also abound in terms of upping the
insulation factor in your home. Fiberglass batt insulation, for example, looks
like a roll of a cotton-type material, and it can help prevent air leaks in
unfinished spaces.
Another option is spray foam insulation, where
Vannoni says a contractor comes and drills a hole in your walls from either the
inside or outside of the house and blows insulation inside
it.
According to Energy.gov, the batt insulation is
the inexpensive option. But, if you’re able to invest more in your insulation,
Vannoni recommends the spray foam type. Why? Because spray foam is denser than
other applications and acts as a spatial barrier by expanding after a period of
time, he says.
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